SIST EN 12270:2013

2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Bergsteigerausrüstung - Klemmkeile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und PrüfverfahrenEquipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Coinceurs - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essaiMountaineering equipment - Chocks - Safety requirements and test methods97.220.40Oprema za športe na prostem in vodne športeOutdoor and water sports equipmentICS:Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z:EN 12270:2013SIST EN 12270:2013en,fr,de01-december-2013SIST EN 12270:2013SLOVENSKI
STANDARD



SIST EN 12270:2013



EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM
EN 12270
November 2013 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 12270:1998English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Chocks - Safety requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Coinceurs - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Klemmkeile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 28 September 2013.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre:
Avenue Marnix 17,
B-1000 Brussels © 2013 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 12270:2013 ESIST EN 12270:2013



EN 12270:2013 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword .3 1 Scope .4 2 Normative references .4 3 Terms and definitions .4 4 Requirements .5 4.1 Design .5 4.2 Strength .5 5 Test methods .5 5.1 Test samples .5 5.2 Test apparatus for strength test .5 5.2.1 Layout .5 5.2.2 Adjustment . 12 5.3 Conditioning and test conditions . 12 5.4 Procedure . 13 5.4.1 Design . 13 5.4.2 Strength . 13 6 Marking . 13 7 Information supplied by the manufacturer . 14 Annex A (informative)
Protection provided by chocks . 15 Annex B (informative)
Standards on mountaineering equipment . 16 Annex ZA (informative)
Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 17 Bibliography . 18
SIST EN 12270:2013



EN 12270:2013 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 12270:2013) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2014, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by May 2014. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document supersedes EN 12270:1998. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s). For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. In comparison with the previous edition EN 12270:1998, the following significant changes have been made: a) editorial revision; b) new Annex A “Protection provided by chocks” added; c) updated Annex B. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. SIST EN 12270:2013



EN 12270:2013 (E) 4 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for chocks for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 564, Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cord - Safety requirements and test methods EN 565, Mountaineering equipment - Tape - Safety requirements and test methods EN 892, Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test methods EN 1891, Personal protective equipment for the prevention of falls from a height - Low stretch kernmantel ropes EN ISO 139, Textiles - Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139) ISO 7000, Graphical symbols for use on equipment - Registered symbols 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 chock non-adjustable body, which is intended to be wedged in cracks or cavities in the rock and which, due to its shape and orientation in the rock, can withstand a load Note 1 to entry: See Annex A for protection provided by chocks. 3.2 means of attachment part of a chock which allows the attachment of a connector Note 1 to entry: Applies to connectors in accordance with EN 12275. 3.3 holding force force necessary to cause the chock or its means of attachment to break or to be pulled through the test apparatus Note 1 to entry: The force is determined in the strength test according to 5.4.2. SIST EN 12270:2013



EN 12270:2013 (E) 5 4 Requirements 4.1 Design 4.1.1 Chocks may be fitted with a means of attachment by the manufacturer. 4.1.2 If a chock is not fitted with a means of attachment, the chock shall be designed such that a means of attachment consisting of tape (according to EN 565) or accessory cord (according to EN 564) or rope (according to EN 892 or EN 1891) can be affixed. 4.1.3 If there is a textile means of attachment, whose strength is dependent on the integrity of the stitching, then the stitching shall contrast with the background in colour or surface appearance. 4.1.4 Any means of attachment shall be large enough to accommodate a pin with a diameter of (15 ± 0,1) mm. 4.1.5 All edges of the chock and/or the means of attachment that can come into contact with fingers or combinable components shall be free from burrs. 4.2 Strength When tested according to 5.4.2, the holding force shall be at least the one(s) marked on the chock (see Clause 6 b)) and be not less than 2,0 kN. 5 Test methods 5.1 Test samples For the test, as many test samples shall be provided as there are different chock orientations indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions for use. If a chock model is manufactured in different sizes, each size shall be tested. 5.2 Test apparatus for strength test 5.2.1 Layout The apparatus consists of two round steel supporting jaws with a radius R = (65 ± 2) mm for the chock and by means of a loading bar with a diameter of (10 ± 0,1) mm for the means of attachment, see Figure 2 and Figure 6. An apparatus consisting of two round steel supporting jaws with a radius R = (25 ± 1) mm shall be used for testing chocks where bmax of the tested position < 10 mm (see Figure 1). The surface of the supporting jaws shall have a maximum surface roughness of Rmax = 50
The supporting jaws shall not rotate during the test. When testing chocks fitted with textile slings, the surface of the steel bar shall have an arithmetical mean deviation of the profile of Ra = 0,8 Rmax = 6,3 surface roughness requirements when testing chocks with a means of attachment made of other than textile material. For chocks with a horizontal non-parallel cross-section according to Figure 3, the supporting jaws shall have a groove adapted to the cross-section of the chock. SIST EN 12270:2013



EN 12270:2013 (E) 6 For cam-type chocks (according to Figure 4) which attain their wedging effect by swinging to one side when loaded and therefore cannot be clamped into the round steel supporting jaws, the force is transmitted by two plane-parallel steel suppo
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